Kyajo Ri Climbing: Compete Guide, Map & Route

One of the most challenging small peaks of Nepal, Kyajo Ri boasts an expedition style of climbing. Located in the remote sparse of Khumbu valley, it is accessed by a Himalaya flight to Lukla.

~Overview~

Kyajo Ri 6,186 m (20,295 ft) Alpine PD+ is a Six-Thousander peak located in Khumbu valley of Nepal. A part of greater Himalaya, Kyajo Ri is classified as a small peak. It is considered a more technical climb compared to other small peaks of Nepal.

The Normal route (South West ridge) is accessed via the South East col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. The other routes; South East and North East ridges are not much used. It is a technical climb.

Climbing Kyajo Ri

Kyajo Ri Summit
Kyajo Ri Summit

You should take a short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by 5 days trek to Kyajo Ri Base Camp via Mende, a Sherpa village. One can rest at Kyajo Ri Base Camp 4,550 m (14,924 ft) and attempt climbing the peak the very next day.

The first day of climbing concludes at Camp I 5,200 m (17,056 ft). The next day climb will conclude at Camp II 5,700 m (18,696 ft). You must assault for summit the next day itself by dawn and descend to Camp II. The further descent can be completed in a day, followed by a downhill trek back to Lukla.

~Map~

~Itinerary~

Day 01: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding (2652m/8698ft)
Day 02: Trek to Namche (3440m/11283ft)
Day 03: Day Acclimatization in Namche
Day 04: Trek to Mende (3736 m/12,255 ft)
Day 05: Trek to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4550m/ 14924ft)
Day 06: Rest Day at Kyajo Ri Base Camp
Day 07: Trek to Camp I (5200m/17056 ft)
Day 08: Trek to Camp II (5700m/18696 ft)
Day 09: Summit Day & Return to Camp II. 9-10 hours
Day 10: Climbing Reserved Day
Day 11: Camp II to Kyajo Ri Base Camp – 7-8 hrs
Day 12: Trek from Kyajo Ri Base Camp to Namche Bazaar
Day 13: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla

~Seasons~

It is commonly climbed in two different seasons, Pre-monsoon (March to June)and Post-monsoon (September to November). Both the seasons receive multitude of climbers attempting the small peaks in the region. Unfavorable weather during climbing can prove to be detrimental.

~Gallery~

Resources


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