Among the trekking peaks in Nepal, Lobuche East (E) is considered one of the most technical peaks for climbing. Despite its altitude of 6,000+ meters, climbing the peak requires a climbing guide, along with the experience of using Ice Axe and crampons.
Lobuche East 6,119 m (20,075 ft) Alpine PD+ is a Six-Thousander peak located in Khumbu valley of Nepal. A part of greater Himalaya, Lobuche E is classified as a small peak. It is considered a more technical climb compared to other small peaks of Nepal.
Adjacent to Lobuche E is Lobuche Far East, another summit of Lobuche which is 26 meters shorter than the prior. Other popular small peaks like Island peak, Mera peak and Pokalde proudly accompany Lobuche, all of which are considered OK for climbing.
The first recorded ascent of this peak is surprisingly as late as 1984 by Laurence Neilson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa. The main photo shows the general line of the south east ridge route as viewed from Pheriche.
Climbing Lobuche East
The ascent may encounter with step and slippery rocks slabs and snow slopes before reaching South west ridge, which is just below the glacier along the Lobuche high camp. From here, one can push for the summit which can be be sharp and exposed ridge. Depending on the seasons, the summit of the Lobuche E requires climbing with angle of 70 to 75 degrees with some belayed snow or ice climbing, thus it is most demanding.
Starting from Lukla, you must trek through serene Sherpa villages of Namche Bazaar, Phakding and Pangboche. The ascent can be completed in couple of days. The first stop will be made at Lobuche base camp followed by another stop at Lobuche High camp, from where the summit can be attempted and along with ultimate descend to the base camp.
It is commonly climbed in two different seasons, Pre-monsoon (March to June)and Post-monsoon (September to November). Both the seasons receive multitude of climbers attempting the small peaks in the region. Unfavorable weather during climbing can prove to be detrimental.