Lobuche (East) Peak Climbing: Complete Guide, Map and Route

Among the trekking peaks in Nepal, Lobuche East (E) is considered one of the most technical peaks for climbing. Despite its altitude of 6,000+ meters, climbing the peak requires a climbing guide, along with the experience of using Ice Axe and crampons.

~Overview~

Lobuche East 6,119 m (20,075 ft) Alpine PD+ is a Six-Thousander peak located in Khumbu valley of Nepal. A part of greater Himalaya, Lobuche E is classified as a small peak. It is considered a more technical climb compared to other small peaks of Nepal.

Adjacent to Lobuche E is Lobuche Far East, another summit of Lobuche which is 26 meters shorter than the prior. Other popular small peaks like Island peak, Mera peak and Pokalde proudly accompany Lobuche, all of which are considered OK for climbing.

The first recorded ascent of this peak is surprisingly as late as 1984 by Laurence Neilson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa. The main photo shows the general line of the south east ridge route as viewed from Pheriche.

Climbing Lobuche East

Descending from Lobuche East
Descending from Lobuche East

The ascent may encounter with step and slippery rocks slabs and snow slopes before reaching South west ridge, which is just below the glacier along the Lobuche high camp. From here, one can push for the summit which can be be sharp and exposed ridge. Depending on the seasons, the summit of the Lobuche E requires climbing with angle of 70 to 75 degrees with some belayed snow or ice climbing, thus it is most demanding.

Starting from Lukla, you must trek through serene Sherpa villages of Namche Bazaar, Phakding and Pangboche. The ascent can be completed in couple of days. The first stop will be made at Lobuche base camp followed by another stop at Lobuche High camp, from where the summit can be attempted and along with ultimate descend to the base camp.

~Map~

~Itinerary~

Day 01: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, and Trek to Phakding
Day 02: Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 03: Rest & Acclimatization Day
Day 04: Trek to Dole
Day 05: Trek to Machharmo
Day 06: Trek to Gokyo
Day 07: Rest Day at Gokyo, Option hike to Gokyo Ri, Fifth Lake
Day 08: Trek to Thaknak
Day 09: Trek to Dzungla via Chola Pass
Day 10: Trek to Gorekshep
Day 11: Day Trip to Everest Base Camp
Day 12: Gorekshep- Kalapathar- Lobuche East (E)
Day 13: Lobuche E- Lobuche E Base Camp
Day 14: Lobuche E Base Camp- Lobuche E High Camp
Day 15: Summit Day: Lobuche E (6119m/20,070 ft) Summit & back to Base Camp
Day 16: Lobuche E Base Camp to Pangboche
Day 17: Pangboche- Namche
Day 18: Namche Bazaar – Phakding- Lukla
Day 19: Lukla – Kathmandu

~Seasons~

It is commonly climbed in two different seasons, Pre-monsoon (March to June)and Post-monsoon (September to November). Both the seasons receive multitude of climbers attempting the small peaks in the region. Unfavorable weather during climbing can prove to be detrimental.

~Gallery~

Resources


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2 thoughts on “Lobuche (East) Peak Climbing: Complete Guide, Map and Route

  1. Reblogged this on Adventure Travel Blog and commented:

    Climbing Lobuche East – A Six-Thousander trekking peak in Nepal, which is considered the best technical climb. Trekking peak climbing are open during pre-monsoon (March-June) and post-monsoon (September-November) seasons in Nepal.

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